Santali Jewelleries

                                                              Jewelleries of Santals

Along with the evolution of clothing the change in jewelleries has been seen. In earlier days back in many years, Santal women wore bangles made of terracotta which was called hasa sakam (hasa-mud and sakam-bangle). They also used hasa mala (necklace made of terracotta beads). The beads were made by hand and dried after making it hollow. Then they were put in a sequence with a thread and used as necklace. The hasa sankha and the mala were worn by the women only. The males also wore a bangle the difference was that the female bangle had motifs on the body where as the male bangle had no motifs. In both the bangles the joineries were made more interesting by making the heads of animals and birds on it. The accessories were popular but it was brittle, so it was worn during special days or when there is less physical work to do.

Later on people started using the ornaments of bronze when they became able to afford for it. A distinct anklet worn by Santal women in this period was itil paini. On a top view it looks like a rhombus. It was solid and had some floral motifs on it. It was being made in very small size as compared to the actual size of the foot of the Santal women. So it was a difficult job to put on the itil paini. They put it on with the help of applying oil on the foot which make it little easier to complete the job. Once it is put on then never taken out in life. That stays permanent. If it is urgent to take it out then they cut it by any means.

Melhed Sakam(iron bangle):

This is a very significant bangle in the Santal Community. It is worn by the married women in the left hand. It is supposed to be removed when a woman becomes widow. In normal days the married women do not put vermilion(sindur) on their partition on head. So it could have been difficult to differentiate a married and an unmarried lady without this bangle.

Then the time was for the silver and gold jewelleris though most of the people preferred silver jewelleries as it was more affordale to everyone. The gold jewelleries were limited to the jamindari people only.

There were a lot of Santal jewelleries. There were ornaments for each and every body parts. The list of the jewelleries are given below-

On sides of the bun: sud pashi

For hair bun: pan kanta

Above ear on hair: silha

Ear: pagra

Nose: phuli

Coin Necklace : puisa mala

Arm: Baju

Hand: Bala sakam( bangle)

F. ring: mudam

Waist: danda jhinjri

Ankle: khadu(anklet with solid structure)

: Paini (anklet without ghungroos)

:pajap (anklet with ghungroos on it).

Though many jewelleries in silver came into market, all people were not able to wear them because of cost factor but atleast a khadua, a pair of bala sakam, ear and nose rings were affordable to almost all people.

These are the ornaments used by the females. The males were not into using ornaments in day to day life but in marriage or dance ceremonies a heavy long silver chain was being worn by the young man of the rich families. It was worn across the left shoulder to right waist.

During dance programs males used to be bare bodied or wear a vest and gamchcha in hand. They were wearing kacha on bottom.